This month, Ferragamo will return to Milan Men’s Fashion Week, becoming the latest brand away from the trend of mixed-sex fashion shows. What are the strategic considerations behind this move?
LONDON, United Kingdom-The menswear show is returning to the fashion scene.
Following the launch of the Spring / Summer 2020 collection at the Pitti Immagine Uomo last summer, Salvatore Ferragamo announced that it will return to Men’s Fashion Week and will launch a new collection in Milan in January. Except for the original statement, the company declined to comment.
Ferragamo is the latest luxury brand to announce an independent menswear show for the Fall / Winter 2020 collection. Earlier this month, Gucci said that it will also participate in this season’s Milan Men’s Fashion Week after holding multiple mixed-sex fashion shows. Givenchy’s artistic director Clare Waight Keller also turned his attention to Men’s Fashion Week, showing 36 men’s clothing at Paris Men’s Fashion Week in January 2019, and again at Florence Men’s Fashion Week in June.
This subtle trend marks a 180-degree turn in the fashion industry. At the beginning of 2019, industry insiders started a fierce debate on whether it makes sense to participate in menswear week, especially in cities such as London and New York where it is difficult for menswear designers to get attention.
Many well-known brands, including Burberry, Balenciaga, Calvin Klein, and Bottega Veneta, have merged men’s and women’s fashion collections into a mixed-sex fashion show that only appears on the women’s week schedule.
“Men ’s clothing is becoming a larger and faster-growing business,” said Josh Peskowitz, Mena ’s director and buyer of Moda Operandi. . “
In the spring and summer fashion season of 2020, New York Men’s Wear Week was reduced to one day, and participants were mostly little-known brands. Brands such as Sies Marjan and Bode have enough influence to take the men’s show to a larger stage like Paris. But for companies large and small, how to plan a fashion week needs to weigh various factors such as costs and consumer interests.
“Mixed-sex fashion shows have grown more mature, partly because of gender fluidity, and the brand hopes to create a consistent design concept, and partly because this model is more commercially relevant,” Mr Porter said. Hand director Fiona Firth said.
However, as a way to win buyers and fashion editors, the revenue that fashion shows can offer gradually diminishes. Nevertheless, the brand is still overweight fashion shows as a marketing tool. Whether it is Moncler’s monthly update, Chanel’s luxury vacation series launches held around the world, and Versace’s sensational star guest fashion show, the fashion launch provides an unparalleled opportunity for the brand.
For years, Louis Vuitton has held men’s and women’s fashion shows separately. With a highly-watched lineup, a novel venue for show shows, and Virgil Abloh, a well-known streetwear designer responsible for menswear collections, Louis Vuitton was able to maximize consumer interest and increase social media participation. Therefore, online data research agency Tribe Dynamics believes that compared with competitors such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton’s engagement on social media has reached a higher peak.
Men are also buying more luxury goods than before. According to Euromonitor International, sales of designer menswear increased by 4.5% to $ 32.2 billion in 2018, while sales of womenswear increased by 4.3% to $ 53.9 billion. Euromonitor predicts that men’s clothing sales for designer brands will reach $ 39.1 billion by 2023.
If you evaluate a combined men’s and women’s fashion show, you’ll find that “of course you pay less, but you also pay less attention to men’s clothing,” said Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of the Men’s Clothing Show in Florence. “When you Put (the two series) together and you may lose something. ”
He added that the Men’s Show in Florence is not only a business bridge in the men’s circle, but also that brands like Ferragamo return to the men’s week schedule without being overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle of women’s week. It also has special strategic significance.
The design concept of the runway is also changing. “Logo fever” and sporty silhouettes are disappearing, and the tailoring process is beginning to return-brands such as Ferragamo may benefit from this trend. In the past two fashion seasons, even Gucci has changed its logo maximization strategy and turned to monochrome, tailor-made design styles, especially the clothing worn by male models.
Men’s and women’s mixed fashion shows are still very popular-Jacquemus’s 10th anniversary fashion show is a successful example. On November 5 last year, Versace also announced that it will hold a men’s and women’s mixed fall/winter 2020 conference during Women’s Week. However, Peskowitz also predicts that more and more brands turning to independent menswear shows do not mean the end of mixed gender fashion shows.
“I would be very surprised if a brand like Gucci displays menswear during Menswear Week and not (Women’s Wear),” he said. “Strategically, you will see more menswear around the world. It means more men’s wear conferences and more fresh trends. “